Lou on Wine: Batic Pinela 2008

This is what you should be drinking with uni.

The Batič family has been making wine in Slovenia since only the 16th century. Using traditional techniques, they work with indigenous grape varieties with names that sound like girls you met at Camp Komsomol in the ’60s: Zelen, Pinela, Klarnica. The Batičs lavish particular attention on their pinela, a macerated wine that even haters of macerated wine can love (it soaks for a mere five days on the skins). The distinctive white comes in a bottle that looks like a sex toy from an alien race. Aged two years in Slovene oak barrels—but in no way an oak bomb—it is a voluptuous dry wine, dripping with stone fruit and ending on a note of wild bitterness.

Food pairing: Uni fresh from the shell at the Hungry Cat (or from a paper bag at the Hollywood Farmers’ Market).
Where to buy: Woodland Hills Wine Company, 22622 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, whwc.com; $26.95.

Lou Amdur is a wine expert based in L.A.