Somehow the fixie-riding, handlebar-mustachioed archaic revivalists have yet to take up sherry. The antiquated drink will need years to recover from its rep as a uniformly sweet drink to enjoy against your antimacassar. Yet for a modest $20 or $30 you can buy a mature, complex wine to sip chilled as an aperitif or with a meal. Local aficionado Alex Russan selects distinctive barrels of sherry and bottles the minimally filtered wine. The resulting amontillado is a bone-dry, amber-colored wine that smells seductively of nuts, kerosene, and toast. Medium bodied and seashore briny, it has a tense nervosity that makes it fun to drink.
Food pairing: Pork belly bossam at Jang Teo Bossam.
Available at: The Wine House, 2311 Cotner Ave., West L.A.; $37.
–Lou Amdur is the proprietor of Lou Wine & Provisions.