It’s a little crazy: planting on the slopes of a volcano where lava flows can obliterate years of work in a moment. Even on Mount Vesuvius, where the volcanism is quiet, crop yields are throttled by soils that are mineral rich yet poor in organic matter. Villa Dora’s Gelso Nero is made from the Piedirosso grape, which is grown organically on the mountain’s south side. On the black basalt, piedirosso picks up an attractive, tarry flavor that pairs well with grilled or smoked foods. Throughout Campania, piedirosso is blended with aglianico, which lends acidity and perfume to its brooding partner. Food pairing: Rib eye at Kang Ho-dong Baekjeong, 3465 W. 6th St., Koreatown, 213-384-9678.
Available at: K&L Wine Merchants, 1400 Vine St., Hollywood; $25.