Hostaria del Piccolo


The folks behind Venice’s upscale Piccolo Ristorante have cut loose with Hostaria del Piccolo. Wood covers the walls and ceiling and composes the tables, chairs, and benches. (Warning: Each bench is used by two tables, which means you might bump bums with the diner behind you.) Antipasti like grilled calamari and crispy pig’s ears with salsa verde lead the way to the pizzas, which feature doughs made with natural leavening agents and alternative flours (gluten-free fans, rejoice!). Toppings range from a traditional margherita to the Tonno with ahi and cippollini onions to the Zucca with butternut squash, Gorgonzola, and sage. Beyond the lovely pies are pastas like squid ink tagliolini and meatier entrées that include a monster veal chop milanese. Pizza for dessert? Try the dolce versions with strawberries or Nutella. » 606 Broadway (310-393-6633). L-D Mon.-Sat.; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar. Italian $$

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