A former Sunset Strip cottage-turned-Kenneth Cole store is now a chic bastion of California cuisine. A top-notch cocktail bar dominates the dining room, but the megasize patio with the cityscape view is the place to be. Don’t be alarmed if Aussie chef Jordan Toft climbs over your booth to snip some herbs from the potted garden. (Yes, organic squash is sprouting half a mile from the House of Blues.) Small plates range from yellowtail crudo to a braised pork cheek with roasted veggies. Larger appetites can devour a rib-eye cap with grated horseradish and chanterelles or a ruby fillet of ocean trout with crispy skin we’d eat by itself. The pork belly portion was unreasonably large, but while you’re indulging, might we suggest the pear crumble for dessert? » 8752 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood (424-239-1630). D nightly. Full bar. California  $$$

Photograph by Jessica Boone