Keizo Seki, the sushi master who made L.A.’s Japanophiles swoon with his ultratraditional meals at Sushi Zo in Palms, has opened another raw fish respite, this time downtown. From their seats at an intimate granite bar, diners watch as Seki conjures sprawling 30-course feasts of seafood sourced from the city’s finest fishmongers. Slivers of snapper over pillbox-size squares of warm rice are uplifted by a dash of truffle salt. In a display of knife skills, raw squid is sliced into noodles and twirled with uni. Seki and his crew are purists, and their attention to detail, down to the difference in temperature between rice and fish, is apparent—and appreciated.