Nyesha Arrington may have vacated the kitchen, but Wilshire’s farm-centered cooking maintains its rustic charm.Velvety steak tartare is crowned with a golden quail yolk; duck breast is highlighted by pickled cherries and red quinoa. The subdued energy of the patio may leave some looking for hipper enclaves, but with polished service, Wilshire remains a reliable neighborhood destination.
With its two bars, indoor dining room, patio, and cigar lounge all cleverly divided, Wilshire doesn’t feel as big as it is. A mixed lettuce salad might have persimmons, feta, and hazelnuts; lobster and braised sweetbreads elevate a tagliatelle appetizer. Deft treatments, such as the horseradish and parsley gremolata on a salmon fillet, show supreme confidence.