Westside Tavern

This 300-seat behemoth of poured concrete, exposed I beams, and honey-colored wood at the Westside Pavilion is all about volume. What keeps it from being another mass-appeal midrange eatery is chef Warren Schwartz (Saddle Peak Lodge, Whist). The menu lists more producers than a Hollywood epic: James Ranch lamb, Bloomsdale spinach. Portions can be substantial without being excessive—the tender short rib pot roast on a bed of whipped potatoes is a case in point. The jar of airy yet intense chicken liver mousse is a delight. Fried zucchini blossoms are bursting with ricotta. Heirloom tomatoes with an aged balsamic brighten a grilled Angus skirt steak with blue cheese. Desserts tend to be sweet and warm with something sweet and cold plopped on top. A few dishes—like the soggy roasted chicken—trip up the chef, but there’s a level of nuance here that’s impressive.