The boxy facade suggests a backcountry bar, but inside is a romantic jumble of charm: small dining rooms, wood beams, Chopin, and itty-bitty knock-’em-dead martinis. Grilled sausage with creamy horseradish, borscht, and a delicious pea soup with shredded ham are good appetizers. Fat potato pancakes can be repurposed as rafts for the steak tartare, and the fish dishes are lovely and light. Thursday through Saturday the back patio and bar are open.