Wako Donkasu

Wako’s specialty is shaggy-coated, deep-fried everything: pork cutlets, chicken, shrimp, fish, beef—even veggies. But the do-it-yourself sauce, a heady splash infused with roasted sesame seeds that you grind at your table, is the star. Combo plates include a warm potato croquet, a hillock of rice, and a refreshing citrus-cabbage salad.