Vinotéque

It was a hit in Culver City, and now Vinotéque has reopened on a food-centric stretch of Melrose Avenue. The focus has always been wine—plenty of flights and by-the-glass pours, plus an electronic board listing bottles that were opened for customers and that the staff hopes to finish off. Food does more than cleanse the palate. Yes, there are charcuterie plates (one boasts a particularly good version of L.A.’s most unlikely trend: head cheese). There are also fried green tomatoes, braised monkfish, and pork tenderloin cooked sous vide. A few items need futzing: We could barely dig out enough bone marrow to spread on one crostini, and the shellfish arroces was painfully bland. Still, we like the feel here. Prices are fair, and the place is buzzing but not swarmed, offering a welcoming spot to linger over a glass, or three, of something new.