Viet Noodle Bar

Where other neo-Vietnamese restaurants dumb down the traditional, this swank little joint riffs, adding complexity to some standards while nudging the emphasis in others. The kitchen reinvents bun mit (vegetarian jackfruit noodle), combining the fruit with tofu, shiitakes, and fat Japanese-inflected noodles, while the lightly browned exterior and snappy bean sprouts of the banh xeo chay (eggy vegetarian crepe) would make any Vietnamese mom nod in approval.