The room and tables are small, but the atmosphere’s vibrant and Italian to its soul. So is the food: arugula and radicchio salad, grilled vegetables, beef carpaccio, asparagus ravioli, grilled langoustines, and New York steak. The tiramisu is authentic, but we weren’t fooled by the flan billed as panna cotta. Servers sometimes seem harried—and on weekends may seem intent on flipping the table. Hold your ground.