Upstairs 2

Over the past 20 years the Wine House, owned by Bill Knight, has become something of an oenophile clubhouse thanks to its knowledgeable staff (Knight’s sons, Jim and Glen, included). Popular wine classes led to the opening of this small tapas restaurant, where an unusual selection of vintages can be had by the taste (21/2 ounces), the glass, or the carafe. The wildly divergent dishes range from chicken flautas to smoked marlin to orange cauliflower to lamb chops masala. Earlier in the evening, the crowd is somewhat staid, but after 10 p.m. the hip shift begins.