Uncle Darrow’s

Crack the cornmeal shells that wrap each deep-fried mollusk inside the oyster po’boys here, and your reward is a briny burst of Louisiana ozone. Gumbo is alive with bayou blue crabs, while the “bean-balaya,” a mash-up of jambalaya and red beans and rice, is—we swear—healthful, made without lard. Also light enough to leave room for the peach cobbler are the supper oysters, shrimp, or catfish, grilled on request.