In prerevolution Russia, wealthy hosts served zakuska—a bountiful spread of appetizers—to visitors who had traveled long distances in freezing weather. At Trakthir, a Russian café, the zakuska ($7.95 to $15.95) include generous slabs of house-cured salmon accompanied by small potatoes flavored with garlic vinaigrette and freshly cut dill and kubansky salad—ripe tomatoes, Persian cucumbers, and wild lettuces lightly tossed in a sour cream-dill sauce. Come here with a group; portions are geared to sharing, yet prices are modest.