At 7:30 the waitresses are hanging out at the bar, getting coached on their Castilian. By 8 the bare-brick, red-lit room is packed with diners enjoying sautéed shrimp dripping with white wine and garlic or baby bay scallops au gratin. The Spanish wines recommended by the bartender make the food even better. It’s hard to leave the tapas for the entrées, but the paella, loaded with chicken, shrimp, and calamari, is worth the departure. If you have room for dessert, the crema catalana has a delectably crispy top of burnt sugar and cinnamon.