The Tasting Kitchen

Casey Lane’s is a style of fluency: market-driven and pastoral but conveyed with compressed force. Curly-eared gigli pasta is slung with fennel sausage and rapini pesto. What he calls “chicories” is an amalgam of radicchio and frisée tossed in a vinaigrette of balsamic and tesa—a rindless, center-cut bacon. The fragility of halibut flaking in a mix of fresh peas and vermouth butter reveals Lane’s fabulous range.