Rising Hearts Bakery

The description sounds oxymoronic, if not deceitful: a rich, chocolaty, eyes-involuntarily-close-as-you-chew-it brownie with a backdraft of superior cocoa that’s wheat free, dairy free, kosher, and pareve. Sandee Hier’s brownies, like her bread sticks, bagels, muffins, cookies, and pizza (made with cashew “cheese”), never hint at the dietary restrictions considered in their creation (see sidebar below). The bagels have that good bagel chewiness, garlic wafts from the hand-shaped bread sticks, and it seems impossible that butter isn’t the snickerdoodles’ primary ingredient. Although the kitchen is geared to restore indulgence to the diets of those who are lactose or gluten intolerant, nothing emerges from its ovens that wouldn’t hold its own in a crowd of cream-filled, wheat-laden alternatives.