The Penthouse

The Radisson (now called the Huntley) has had a makeover, and Toppers got the heave-ho. The aerie’s been turned into a slick bar-restaurant, with giant cabana-style tables on platforms that take up a chunk of real estate, leaving some of the two-tops barely able to accommodate their bread baskets. At night it’s crowded and loud. Chef Michael Reidt’s food deserves a saner environment. Appetizers like the Tuna Three-Way and the Green Crunch indicate his creativity and talent. His pork shank’s like buttah; his salmon’s cooked just so. The views are stunning, and it’s a lovely spot for a quiet breakfast overlooking the beach.