The Izaka-ya by Katsu-ya

Katsuya Uechi may be eclipsing Nobu Matsuhisa as the first name in L.A. sushi. The decor of this, his fourth restaurant, is more casual than the Brentwood showcase, more deliberate than the Valley outposts. The brick walls got a designer-tenement treatment: They’re partially covered in plaster and hung with unframed artwork at rakish angles. The food’s predictably good: sushi and sashimi, delectable tofu, and the Japanese pub food—miso black cod, Kobe beef burgers, a Kobe-foie gras combo plate—that gives the place its name.