The Grill on the Alley

A quiet cheer pervades this Beverly Hills institution. Studio heads loiter in the booths; grandes dames in head bands down lunchtime cosmopolitans. The greeting is friendly, the service refreshingly unexcited. The food is just as genuine. Dungeness crab cocktail comes nestled on a bed of ice, the way they used to serve it at Chasen’s. The Dover sole meunière and the liver and onions are sensational. Try ordering the baby back ribs or the Kobe beef burger off the menu. A cinnamon-dusted rice pudding or a bracing key lime pie makes a fine end to a memorable meal.