The District by Hannah An

In a flashy two-story space that opens onto West 3rd Street, the District is the solo work of Hannah An of the An family (Crustacean, Anqui). Delicate bánh bèo rice cakes arrive in a cluster of porcelain bowls topped with scallion and shrimp, and a frilly version of pho bo stars slices of filet mignon. There are thick house-made noodles, of course, slathered in garlic oil and studded with lobster or tossed with uni and crab. Chopsticks pry Manila clams from their shells in a broth of garlic and lemongrass, while gin-based District Mules go down with far less effort.