The Bowery

This tiny genuflection to New York sports shiny subway-tile walls, stools transplanted from the Big Apple, cans of Pabst Blue Ribbon, and packs of Camels for sale. The menu’s American with a side of French: chicken liver mousse, short ribs braised in Belgian ale, moules frites, and a sirloin burger with Gruyère. Atmosphere and food trump service.