Tamales Liliana’s

Best of LA, July 2005
At Christmas the line outside Tamales Liliana’s starts at 5 a.m. The rest of the year the atmosphere is both languid and bustling. A mother spoons the first bites of a tamal for her infant daughter, young boys eye the old-fashioned candy dispensers, a table of welders does justice to a selection of sopes with stewed carne deshebrada and pozole with shredded cabbage and lime. But it is the magical just-steamed freshness of the tamales that makes the place special. Behind the counter, opened corn husks are filled with ground corn, stewed pork in a red chile sauce, green peppers, and Monterey Jack, or for a dessert version, pineapple and raisins.