A branch of the Culver City favorite has opened in a particularly unprepossessing minimall. Cheery laminated tablecloths, jugs of horchata and fresh juices, and a salsa bar are hieroglyphs that signal traditional Mexican food. Here, it’s as good as it gets, from the rich and plentiful chicken mole (half a bird) to the pliant quesadillas, from the tacos to the ceviche.