Sqirl

Best Avocado Toast, August 2015

Sure, most self-respecting breakfast joints serve slices of bread smeared with nature’s mayo these days. And yes, trying the version at this East Hollywood café often means circling for a parking spot and standing in a long line among Devendra Banhart clones and would-be cast members for a West Coast spin-off of Girls. Trust us, it’s worth it. A wedge of Clark Street country bread supports strata of green garlic crème fraîche, mashed avocados from JJ’s Lone Daughter Ranch, fat ribbons of spicy, pickled carrots, and an acerbic sprinkle of house-made za’atar. Waiting for stuff like this is why God invented Candy Crush.


You could go to Sqirl just to read the blackboard. That’s “bandage wrapped” cheddar in a sandwich, and what  would “open-faced brioche toast” be without kale, an egg, and a shock of “lacto-fermented hot sauce”? Originally conceived as another outlet for Jessica Koslow’s superb jams, Sqirl has grown in to the neighborhood commissary. Bacon serving but vegan friendly, attuned to the rhythms of an L.A. day (breakfast until 4 p.m.), Sqirl is of the moment yet anchored by something deeper.