Spago Beverly Hills

Following 2012’s overhaul, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship has turned into a streamlined space that’s striking enough to draw out the nuances of Lee Hefter’s cooking. There’s vitality when the cushioned house style is applied to the jagged edges of contemporary dining. Binchotan charcoal, wild nettles—they’re all here. A thin layer of smoked mascarpone tops the veal tartare in a marrowbone. The appearance of white corn agnolotti on the menu is still how the peak of summer is announced in Beverly Hills.