South Beverly Grill

The team behind Houston’s and R+D Kitchen has opened this salute to the classic American restaurant. Two bars flank a main dining room, where Beverly Hills regulars fill the leather booths. The crowd—and it is a crowd—skews local. The throwback-style food is done subtly and with sophistication: fried oysters with creamed spinach and artichokes, a shrimp Louie salad, a magnificent Dover sole meunière (available Thursday through Saturday only), a filet mignon with béarnaise sauce. You can tell this operation comes from an experienced company; there’s a polish to the service that’s rarely seen in new spots. The bars have a separate menu of light sandwiches and hors d’oeuvres along with old-fashioned cocktails and often live music.