Shin-Sen-Gumi

The yakitori chef here wears his headband with the aplomb of the Karate Kid. The customers, mostly workers from the Japanese companies headquartered nearby, swap stories and nurse longnecks while waiting for their skewers. Chicken liver, giblet, and heart are basted with shoyu on the grill. Chicken skin is presented as a sputtering, salted lozenge. At meal’s end the patrons linger by the glow of the coals.