Sapp Coffee Shop

Best Pad Thai, August 2014

You’re not going to Sapp Coffee Shop for a caffeine jolt. The nondescript restaurant in a grimy Thai Town strip mall has been serving Bangkok-style dishes since the 1980s. But unlike many of its neighbors, who’ve caved to Western tastes and sugar-soaked the street food staple, Sapp has held out. Its sticky, pungent version of pad thai—tangy with tamarind water and fish sauce and tempered by shaved palm sugar—achieves the harmonious mix of sour, sweet, and tart that characterizes the best Thai food.