Salt Air

Abbot Kinney’s former Capri space was long overdue for a turnover, and David Reiss—of success stories like A-Frame and Littlefork—is the one who made it happen. The whitewashed restaurant has hopped on the suddenly crowded New England seafood bandwagon with a raw bar, pretzel-crusted fried oysters, and a buttery lobster roll. But chef Greg Daniels—who cooked at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Perry St—doesn’t hug the East Coast too closely. There’s also a very California toast dish that’s spread with peas and ricotta, an impressive bouillabaisse (a treat that’s so often reduced to “fish soup”), and an Asian-inflected whole fried snapper.