Enormous chandeliers and Fabergé egg-inspired pendant lights hang above a stunning dining room with lacquered floors and roomy Copacabana-style semicircular booths. It’s billed as a Russian steak house, but the steaks are mediocre, and the menu’s not all that Russian. The vodka selection, however, does the mother country proud, and after a three-shot sampler, the food becomes immaterial and the surroundings get even better.