Lumping this 26-seat downtown sushi bar with the rest of the city’s high-priced omakase specialists would be easy. But closer inspection reveals that chef Hiroyuki Naruke specializes in a more profound style of sushi rarely seen stateside. Translucent wafers of Korean fluke are wrapped in kelp to cure; lobes of uni are glazed with miso and marinated for hours. Naruke’s magnum opus may be a slice of tamago (sweet egg omelette)—a humble cube of gratitude to end the night.