Public Kitchen & Bar

It’s all very public at Tim and Liza Goodell’s newest restaurant at the storied Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel. The “Food for the people” tagline reminds you of the accessibility of the place, which is decked out like a high-brow country store. Public Kitchen seeks to position itself with the nose-to-tail crowd. Chicharrones are splashed with chile flakes and lime zest. The sweetbreads are spectacular, with water chesnuts lending a crunch to the lightly browned lobes. Goodell can lay on certain flavors too heavily. He has a particular weakness for lemon, which overpowers the cured steelhead appetizer as well as the Shaker pie. But he redeems himself with the trifle for two, a preserves jar layered with sponge cake, whipped cream, and Chambord-macerated berries. Graceful without being mannered, the dessert embodies Goodell at his best.