Pico Kosher

Behind a faded sign on a stretch of Pico where Farsi script adorns many an awning stands L.A.’s only fully kosher deli: The double-handled pitcher for ritual hand washing sits in the sink; the injunction against serving meat and dairy in the same establishment is strictly observed. “So I can’t give you cream cheese with a bagel,” shrugs Jacob Hecht, who owns the snug establishment with his brother, David, and father, Max. The dining room is compact, and if you hit the place at lunchtime, the line snaking along the counter is one long phalanx of kippah-wearing regulars exchanging news. The meat is cut in front of customers. It’s pliant, warm, and generous, a corned and steamed extension of Pico Kosher’s pervasive cheer.