Pez Cantina

Bunker Hill, the skyscraper-buttressed, corporate nerve stem of L.A., is the last place you’d expect to find a proper Baja fish taco. Yet the one that arrives at Bret Thompson’s spiffy Latin restaurant is spot-on: crunchy beer batter, tart cabbage slaw, and soft tortillas patted out by hand. Thompson, cofounder of Milk and a former Patina chef, tweaks regional Mexican dishes just enough to make them distinct. Yucatecan cochinita pibil is served as a juicy pork shank with radish salsa. Cured shrimp aguachile gets its sour kick from green apple. If you can swallow the idea of paying for chips and salsa, Pez Cantina is “fancy Mexican” with surprising soul.