At this caviar boutique and cafe, chef Giselle Wellman (Bouchon Beverly Hills) works modern-day wonders with such Russian standards as chilled borscht and cured salmon, playfully using caviar where it makes sense (crispy creme fraiche flatbread) and leaving well enough alone when it doesn’t (truffle fontina agnolotti with asparagus). The latest menu even includes a burger. How far from the ivory spoons can you get? Of course there’s always the Imperial Caviar Tria–for a smidge under $400.