Little can rival the experience of sitting by an outdoor fireplace 15 floors above Bunker Hill, listening to French pop while soaking up the lights of downtown. A few dishes come close, like the perfectly cooked fillet of perch (the fish, a clever pun) over baby leeks and the down-home take on a cassoulet called Pork & Beans. Other offerings buckle under the pressure, such as the bland broccolini salad. But gazing at L.A. with a sparkling Campari royal in hand, it’s easy to overlook any culinary fumbles.

The Rooftop Bar:  The rooftop bar and restaurant near Pershing Square has a modern view but an atmosphere that conjures 1930s Paris. On weekends the kitchen serves truffle poutine and merguez sliders until 1 a.m.