The retro-cool French bistronomie movement that’s sweeping Paris may be the lodestar of Papilles, but the restaurant renders a very L.A. interpretation. With the no-nonsense cooking of Tim Carey and most of the wine bottles in the under-$50 sweet spot, Papilles has become the indispensable back-pocket Hollywood hub for a piping-hot bowl of leek-and-potato velouté, a well-edited cheese board, and a glass of unfiltered red Arbois.