Ottavio Palmeri, formerly of Il Fornaio, opened this Italian spot on an old Koo Koo Roo site. The setting’s clean and blond, salt-crusted branzino is tender, pizzas and pastas are creative, and the complimentary dip of goat cheese with warm marinara sauce is a nice way to kick things off. Depending on your waiter, the service can be good or not so hot, and the bread is sometimes served after its prime.