Osteria Mamma

Pasta lovers mourned last year when Filippo Cortivo and his beloved “Mam- ma” left their longtime home at Melrose’s Osteria La Buca. Now they’re back, on the same street no less, with Osteria Mamma, a fast and furious celebration of the humble starch. Loredana “Mamma” Cecchinato makes all the pastas herself, from the musky squid ink fettuccine with bottarga to the fat tagliatelle lapping up a triple-meat bolognese. Mamma’s palate might be waning—most sauces could use a hit of salt, and the pizzas are painfully forgettable. Still, the lively spirit in the noisy space, and those blessed noodles, warrant the cult following.