Orsa & Winston

In this minimalist venture, chef Josef Centeno gives us his most austere yet farthest-reaching restaurant. The format is limited to multicourse tasting menus ranging from $50 to $195, along with a few à la carte dishes of what he calls “antipasti,” such as grilled geoduck with shaved fennel and diced pomelo. Crumbled furikake seaweed and good olive oil create a sauce for thin slices of pork head testa. Cooked like a risotto and capped by San Diego uni, the satsuki nears evanescence with yuzu-pecorino cream.