At Nobu Matsuhisa’s cozy spot, ceviche is a spicy mélange of shrimp and fish marinated in lemon juice and rice vinegar; the whitefish tiradito is flower shaped; “pasta” is curls of squid in a light garlic sauce; and the sushi and sashimi are standard-bearers. For dessert, try broiled plums with a meringue puff and ginger ice cream.