Niki Nakayama tailors the rituals of kaiseki dining to a bungalow in Palms. It’s high formality without the airs. Courses begin arriving soon after you are seated. Whether it’s a skein of spaghettini with paper-thin abalone, a seared wagyu slice with blistered shishito pepper, or diced shiitakes folded into a butter sauce over Alaskan king crab, a pointillist intensity comes through in every dish.