Night + Market

Kris Yenbamroong’s Thai canteen on the Sunset Strip takes on the raw, aggressive, and unfiltered flavors of rural northern Thailand. Spicy crispy rice salad and links of sour pork sausage are bolstered by copious amounts of fish sauce, diced chilies, and dried herbs. A portrait of Pete Sampras in the dining room looks on while you choose between sparkling gamays or plastic towers of Chang beer. Boredom is impossible here—and that, in itself, is an accomplishment.