The exterior is spanking-new, but this yakitori restaurant is 30 years old. West of the 405, that qualifies as a landmark. A few decorative masks hang on the walls, and service has an efficient poise. Customers at the counter can watch the chefs flip ears of corn and layer tendrils of squid on the grill. Vegetables are spectacular—especially the okra and the burdock root rolled in thin strips of pork—but the chicken wings suspend conversation. The genial chefs sip their beers and turn back to the embers.