Mori Sushi

A simple menu, a rigorous devotion to freshness, and a laser-beam focus on every aspect of dining are the trademarks of Morihiro Onodera. The chef-owner of this ode to pristine sushi grows his rice on a plot in Northern California, harvests it with his staff, and doesn’t hull it until the day it’s served. He makes his own tofu—creamy pillows served with a dab of wasabi—and casts his own utsuwa, or ceramic serving pieces, including little sake cups. He learned in the kitchens of Katsu and Matsuhisa but has made the art of sushi his own.