Moon Mart Kabab

Best Heart Dish, August 2013

These days Los Angeles has no shortage of ways to eat your heart out—or at least that of a cow. At Picca skewers of the dense meat are drizzled with a pesto of walnuts and rocoto peppers. At Bestia it’s hand sliced, heaped on crostini, and sharpened with a splash of champagne vinegar. Both are good. The rendition at Moon Mart Kabab is primal, and the best way to enjoy this organ meat. Draped over warm lavash bread, strewn with diced white onion and chopped parsley, the deeply charred strips need only a shake of the tabletop sumac to transport you far away. This dish could be devoured beside a caravansary campfire; in reality you’re sitting beneath an awning in Glendale, drinking hot tea.