Moles La Tia

You can’t tell from the street, but a few sips of the house-made horchata—a milky blush of cinnamon rice water and cactus puree dotted with pumpkin seeds—is all it takes to know you’re somewhere special. Nopales salad gets its zing from thin slices of red onion, and the mancha manteles (“tablecloth stainer”) is a potent mix of mole, pork, and charred pineapple. The Oaxacan-inflected cooking is rivaled only by the warmth of the space.